The Dance of the Peacock is a fabulous book on antique Indian jewelry co-authored by Usha Balakrishnan. The beautifully done Coffee-table book it is a labor of love. Published in 1998, it is now in its fourth edition. It took ten years of research and three years of writing and traveling not only to all corners of India but also the world, said Usha who is based in Andheri, Mumbai.
Usha is a Ph.D in Ancient Indian History and Culture and post doctorate in Museum Administration and Management from New York University. She is a consultant for Sotheby’s, writes for many journals and does documentation for museums in US, UK, Switzerland and other places in Europe.
She recalled that it all started with doing a paper on Moghul Jades, which opened many doors, and she decided to do this book as a voyage of discovery more for herself than anything else. Hence, she bore all the travel, photography and allied expenses.
Q. How can one identify the true antiquity of a piece? Are there some apparent or subtle giveaways to distinguish and fake from real?
Answer: To an experienced eye it is difficult to fool. With years of experience it becomes instinctive. To put it succinctly, the pieces begin to speak to you. Identification is based on many years of experience. Of seeing, studying and handling a wide variety of pieces. Some of the factors taken into consideration are: Design, manufacturing technique and workmanship, tools used, stones used, wear and tear, weight etc. Especially the wear and tear of age is difficult to fake.
Q. Which countries have a heritage like ours in jewelry?
Answer: Europe and UK, Egypt, Greece, China, Indonesia, Africa, Italy to name a few, though some of them not as old.
Q. How do museums and auction houses identify genuineness of pieces?
Answer: Through experience and by consulting experts in the field. Also, provenance is a very important factor in determining authenticity. For very high value pieces the holder must have documents to prove the origin of the jewelry be it an old photograph, literary mention or a letter from the owner tracing its authenticity. In the commercial world it is very common to find traders and retailers claiming a piece to be of some Maharaja but they have no proof. This is what customers should ask to protect themselves from being cheated.
Q. Could a system of certifying antique jewelry be evolved nationally and internationally or is this already existing
Answer: Am not aware if anything formal exists. Individual scholars lend their expertise when needed.
Q. Which part of our country is richest in jewelry heritage?
Answer: Tough - many parts. Rajasthan, Gujarat, Bengal, South India, all have unique and exceptional heritage. The North East too is rich in heritage but their jewelry is mostly beads and silver. Similarly, Himachal Pradesh is fabulous for silver and Orissa for filigree work in silver.
Q. In the eighties, the craze for antique was at its peak. Now what is the scene like?
Answer: The love for antique endures. People are more aware today and conscious of the need to preserve old pieces and also aware of their antique value.